Fine Jewellery

Cartier Paris Unique Art Deco Gem-set and Diamond 'Tutti Frutti' Clip Brooch in Platinum


Shipping to United States: Free
  • Details
    A remarkable 1930s Cartier tutti frutti Burmese ruby, sapphire, emerald and diamond dress clip set in platinum. The exquisite clip has a central panel of hand carved tutti frutti gems encased in an Art Deco pierced openwork platinum border set with baguette, Old European and transitional round brilliant cut diamonds. The reverse hides a skeleton clip fitting.
    Estimated total Burmese ruby and sapphire weight: 2.29cts.
    Estimated total emerald weight: 1.08cts.
    Estimated total diamond weight: 4.88cts. Assessed diamond colour: F-G. Assessed diamond clarity: VVS.

    It is signed Cartier on the outside of the skeleton clip fitting, but it is badly worn and is not legible in its entirety. Hallmarks are present on the side of the top of the clip

    There had been a few colourful Cartier designs before brother Jacques set out to India in 1911 to witness the coronation of King George as Emperor, but the trip is a landmark as far as jewelry moments go. It introduced the house to a series of Maharajahs who would go on to commission masterpieces, and it opened Cartier’s eyes to the stone carving techniques of the Indian jewelry tradition.

    Soon bib necklaces and brooches would appear in the Cartier workshop studded with carved rubies, emeralds, and sapphires, in shapes like leaves and berries and blossoms. It was a departure from the white-diamond heavy garlands and bows that had dominated offerings before them, but also veered away from the strict geometric lines of Art Deco jewels that ruled the mid to late 1920s.

    Although the name ‘Tutti Frutti’ wasn’t coined until the 1970s, the story of the Cartier Tutti Frutti is a marriage of French design and Indian Royalty. These creations from the 1920s-30s always incorporate Moghul-style carved coloured gemstones in natural motifs: flowers, leaves, berries and fruits. These carved stones, so popular in traditional Indian jewelry, were then mounted by Cartier in platinum and diamond settings, a perfect marriage of East and West. It is the mark of the glorious exchange of ideas and inspiration between the French house of Cartier and Indian royalty that inspired some of the most important pieces of the twentieth century.

    Then, as now, to own one of these Indian-inspired Cartier pieces was to single yourself out as a true connoisseur
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    1-2 business days

    Estimated shipping times

    • North America : 3 - 5 business days
    • Europe : 1 - 5 business days

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    Returns & Exchanges

    I gladly accept returns and exchanges

    Just contact me within: 14 days of delivery

    Ship items back to me within: 30 days of delivery

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    The following items can't be returned or exchanged

    Because of the nature of these items, unless they arrive damaged or defective, I can't accept returns for:

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    Buyers are responsible for return shipping costs. If the item is not returned in its original condition, the buyer is responsible for any loss in value.